February 24-26

March 8-10

This course has been designed to provide you with a comprehensive introduction to the art of winter mountaineering. Our primary objective, Crystal Crag, serves as an ideal base camp location. It offers the unique advantage of being in terrain that remains accessible even during significant winter storms, safeguarded from the threat of avalanches. Moreover, it presents you with an opportunity to immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of the Lakes Basin in the Mammoth area.

While Crystal Crag’s west ridge might be a straightforward climb in the Sierra during the summer months, tackling it with bulky winter gear, amidst a blanket of snow, and exposure to the relentless winds sweeping across the Sierra Crest, transforms it into a formidable challenge. Nevertheless, it’s a challenge that will undoubtedly ignite your passion for further winter adventures.

Guide-to-Participant ratio

For the first day of this program we maintain a guide-to-participant ratio of one guide for every six participants. This setup is particularly advantageous when rock climbing, as it enables us to efficiently manage two ropes, with one climber, a belayer, and a backup belayer for each rope. However, as we transition to the peak ascent phase, we introduce an additional guide, reducing the ratio to one guide for every three climbers.

Prerequisites

Prior basic rock climbing experience is a prerequisite for this course. You should possess fundamental skills such as tying into a rope and a working knowledge of belaying. If you’re not yet acquainted with these skills, consider investing an hour or two at a local climbing gym to bring yourself up to speed. Rest assured, we’ll conduct a thorough belay skills review before we embark on the climbing portion of the program, and we’ll continuously provide guidance on movement throughout the course. Previous camping experience is also essential, although it does not need to be winter camping experience.

Gear

Snowshoes are the most effective means of transportation for this course. If you do not have them we offer snowshoe rentals. For a full gear list, please review the Equipment List in the “Resources” tab.

Inclusions

Price includes guiding, permits, all necessary climbing group gear, avalanche beacons, tents, and kitchen gear. We provide meals when we camp together. You will be responsible for your own lodging on night 1. We will camp together on night 2. Please bring your own snacks and lunch for day 1. We will provide lunch and dinner on day 2 and breakfast and lunch on day 3.

Looking for Snow Travel Skills?

Occasionally our guests express a keen interest in learning crampon and self-arrest techniques. It’s important to emphasize that these skills are most optimally acquired through participation in a dedicated spring/summer mountaineering program. The reason being, winter snow conditions often feature deep and soft snow, making these techniques less relevant and practical. However, in the event that both weather and terrain conditions align favorably, we may include instruction on these skills. Nonetheless, it’s important to note that they are best suited for use in firmer snow conditions as opposed to deep powder. For these skills, we recommend our spring Snow Travel Skills course.

While the schedule outlined above represents our preferred plan, it’s crucial to bear in mind that, given the unpredictable nature of winter conditions, adjustments may be necessary. We kindly ask you to remain flexible and prepared for potential changes. Regardless of any alterations, our primary commitment remains unwavering: to provide you with a safe and valuable educational experience.

Day 1

The first day of this course is dedicated to honing essential rope techniques and acclimating to the unique challenge of climbing snowy rock in robust winter boots. Our primary focus is to ensure that everyone is well-versed in the fundamentals before venturing into the mountains. Additionally, we’ll provide comprehensive instruction on the proper use of avalanche beacons and techniques for avalanche rescue. Accommodation for night 1 is not provided.

Day 2

We head our to our basecamp and prepare for our ascent of Crystal Crag. Our journey to the campsite begins at the Lakes Basin trailhead, located just outside Mammoth. Initially, we follow a groomed ski trail for several miles, eventually arriving at our designated campsite in the vicinity of Crystal Crag. Here, we embark on the crucial task of creating a sturdy and weather-protected camp. This phase also includes delving into the finer points of camp life, which can significantly enhance the overall enjoyment of a winter expedition.

Day 3

As we evaluate and discuss the avalanche risk, we navigate our route toward the col nestled at the foot of the South Ridge. Proceeding from this point, we weave through snow ramps and negotiate brief rock steps along the ridge crest, either moving together as a group or in rope pitches, until we reach the summit. Once at the pinnacle, we are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic vistas that stretch across Mammoth, Sherwin Ridge, and extend far into the desert, all the way to the White Mountains.

After soaking in the awe-inspiring views, we retrace our steps, following the same path back to our campsite. As we conclude our mountaineering experience, we dismantle our camp and embark on the journey back to the trailhead, with the aim of returning to our vehicles in the late afternoon.

★ Please Read before you go ★

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Winter Mountaineering Skills