Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Mt. Russell via Fishhook Arête
Mt. Russell via Fishhook Arête
$1,295
Dates
- July 25-27 | August 1-3 | September 19-21
Don’t see the dates you’re looking for? Contact us, we may be able to add dates.
Mount Russell is Mt. Whitney’s next-door neighbor, offering great views and one of the best long alpine routes around. As one of the fifteen peaks in California that are over 14,000’ in height, Mt. Russell is popular, but generally via the less technical East Ridge route. The Fishhook Arête lives up to its name with a lower aesthetic curving swoop that takes four pitches to climb and then an arête direct to the summit. If you are climbing at a solid 5.9 level, this is assuredly a climb that will both challenge and excite you.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.9 level and have experience on multi-pitch routes. Prior backpacking experience is recommended as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
We meet in Lone Pine for a gear check before caravanning to the trailhead. Starting at the 8,640 foot Whitney Portal we hike Whitney Trail for less than a mile before heading up the steep North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail here is non-maintained and rough with creek crossings and rocks to scramble up and over. We traverse the “Ebersbacher” Ledges above the creek and climb to the serene setting of Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,335’). Ascending still higher we pass Upper Boy Scout Lake to our camp near Iceberg Lake (12,400’). Hold on to your hats: this is a gain of over 4000’ from the cars and takes most of the day.
Day 2
Another early start sees us heading over to Mt. Russell via the Whitney-Russell Col. We change into rock shoes, leave extra gear below the start of the route and climb the wonderful Fishhook Arete to the summit.
We have two options to start the ascent:
- The direct start is 5.9 and features intricate face climbing to link tiny crack systems. This start starts in the shade and can be cold and chilly.
- The variation start knocks a grade off and renders the route 5.8. This variation has the benefit of being in the sun if the weather is cold.
Both starts meet at a notch where the climb becomes a true arête: narrow and steep for several pitches, this area of the climb is exhilarating and fun. The first pitch out of the notch is superb – steep, but covered in perfect holds and by now the sun has warmed the rock and it is hard to imagine a better place to be. After ten or so pitches of mostly easy fifth class the route ends right on the summit.
To descend we traverse towards the east summit before dropping down a short Class Three gully and then down talus to our gear.
Day 3
A return down the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek gets us back down to the trailhead by mid day.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to Iceberg Lake: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of gain
Iceberg Lake to the Summit and return: 1.8 miles, 1850’ of gain and loss
Camp to Trailhead: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Kevin, North Ridge of Conness 2025
“Amazing experience. Anouk was awesome. Made the long day very enjoyable. Had great knowledge and skill to make the trip fun and safe. Had great patience and taught/reinforced alpine skills that I was trying to get out of this trip.”
Corey, Palisade Traverse 2025
“Dave is an exceptional mountain guide. His confidence and extensive route knowledge made a challenging route seem (relatively) chill. He’s affable and made me feel at ease, in particular when they’re not up to the level of climbing required for a clean free ascent on route (lookin at you thunderbolt summit block!). Moreover, Dave provided some great feedback on where to focus skill development to achieve my specific goals within my climbing (e.g., more confident trad leading). I’ll be back to climb with Dave for sure.”
More Reviews
Todd, Whitney East Buttress 2025
“There was good up front communication to set expectations. I appreciated the flexibility on dates and itinerary. Gear lists were very helpful for planning…Dave was excellent to work with. I like that he will set expectations and options and and let the client weigh in. He is patient and will not push clients. Rather, he will present options based on client progress, weather, etc. On a technical level he is very strong. I learned some new things from him on the trip which I appreciated. Would definitely recommend him and hope to climb with him again.”
Doug, Multiple 14er’s 2025
“Emma (owner) and Barb (office manager) with the front office were kind, pleasant, helpful and creative in making my CA 14er trips successful…I was also impressed about SMC’s AMGA certification as a guide company. This was probably the main I selected SMC over multiple other Eastern Sierra guide companies (which the other companies did not appear to have). It provided me reassurance that my guides for the various trips should have acceptable AMGA certification for my trips…Guides Dave, Louie, and Anouk were excellent and made me feel comfortable on all my trips…I am a huge fan of openness and transparency with communication. SMC did an awesome job and was willing and helpful with all my various questions and schedule modifications.”
Jason, Palisade Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Related Trips
- $395
- 1 Day
- May 16 | May 23 | June 6 | June 20 | July 11 | July 25 | September 5 | September 19
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- 2026: May 23-25 | June 12-14 | June 26-28 | July 10-12 | August 14-16 | September 18-20
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- 2026: June 5-7 | June 26-28 | July 17-19 | August 7-9 | August 21-23
- $1,695
- 4 Days
- June 5-8 | June 19-22 | July 17-20 | August 7-10 | September 4-7
- $1,725
- 4 Days
- 2026: July 25-28 | August 22-25 | September 12-15
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 27-29 | July 18-20 | August 8-10 | September 12-14
- $985
- 2 Days
- Custom trips available at anytime! Contact us to book.
- $475
- 1 Day
- June 20 | July 12 | July 25 | August 8 | September 6 | September 13