Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Mt. Russell via the East Ridge
Mt. Russell via the East Ridge
$1,295
Dates
- Custom trips at any time! Contact us to book.
There is no other fourteen thousand-foot peak in the Sierra with a better ridge route to the summit. This route is certainly not hiking, but the difficulties are not so great as to require technical climbing skills. Mt. Russell is Mt. Whitney’s often-forgotten neighbor to the north and offers stunning views of Mt. Whitney and the surrounding scenery as we ascend a gradual but narrow ridge to an exciting summit crest between the east and, slightly higher, west summits. You’ll also see the highest-named lake in the country, Tulainyo Lake, straddling the border between Inyo and Tulare counties.
Prerequisites
Technical climbing skills are not required but prior backpacking experience is recommended as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good condition and have the ability to traverse broken uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
We meet in Lone Pine for a gear check before caravanning to the trailhead. We start our climb at the 8,640 foot Whitney Portal and stay on the regular Whitney Trail for less than a mile before heading up the steep North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail here is non-maintained and rough with creek crossings and rocks to scramble up and over. We traverse the “Ebersbacher” Ledges above the creek and drop into the serene setting of Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,335’) before ascending to our camp beside Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,200’), near Mount Russell. This is an elevation gain of 2,500’ from the cars and takes most of the day.
Day 2
An early start up the sandy slopes above Upper Boy Scout takes us up onto the high plateau between Mt. Russell and Mt. Carillon. This section gains most of the elevation we need to climb and from here the east ridge is simply perfect climbing along easy 3rd to 4th class rock. This is a little harder climbing than on the Mountaineers Route and has some exposure. The ridge crest is narrow—but not a true knife-edge—with ample ledges and places to stop, rest and enjoy the views and the ever-increasing exposure.
We traverse this around blocks and pillars before coming to the east summit. From here the crest widens some and is almost level to the west summit a few feet higher than the first. To descend we return towards the eastern summit and then drop down a short gully to the south onto talus slopes that take us to the Whitney-Russell Col and down to Iceberg Lake. From here it is not too much farther down to our camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake.
Day 3
We return down the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek and plan to get back down to the trailhead in time for a lunch of the famed burgers and fries at the Whitney Portal Store, before heading home tired but satisfied.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to Lower Boy Scout Lake: 1.9 miles, 2060’ of gain, 60’ of descent
Lower Boy Scout Lake to Upper Boy Scout Lake: 0.8 miles, 1040’ of gain, 30’ of descent
Upper Boy Scout Lake to start of technical section: 1 mile, 2090’ of gain, 0’ of descent
Start of technical section to the Summit: 0.45 miles, 720’ of gain, 110’ of descent
Summit to Iceberg Lake: 0.9 miles, 173’ of gain, 1610’ of descent
Iceberg Lake to Camp: 1.2 miles, 30’ of gain, 1310’ of descent
Camp to Trailhead: 2.7 miles, 90’ of gain, 3100’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Kevin, North Ridge of Conness 2025
“Amazing experience. Anouk was awesome. Made the long day very enjoyable. Had great knowledge and skill to make the trip fun and safe. Had great patience and taught/reinforced alpine skills that I was trying to get out of this trip.”
Corey, Palisade Traverse 2025
“Dave is an exceptional mountain guide. His confidence and extensive route knowledge made a challenging route seem (relatively) chill. He’s affable and made me feel at ease, in particular when they’re not up to the level of climbing required for a clean free ascent on route (lookin at you thunderbolt summit block!). Moreover, Dave provided some great feedback on where to focus skill development to achieve my specific goals within my climbing (e.g., more confident trad leading). I’ll be back to climb with Dave for sure.”
More Reviews
Todd, Whitney East Buttress 2025
“There was good up front communication to set expectations. I appreciated the flexibility on dates and itinerary. Gear lists were very helpful for planning…Dave was excellent to work with. I like that he will set expectations and options and and let the client weigh in. He is patient and will not push clients. Rather, he will present options based on client progress, weather, etc. On a technical level he is very strong. I learned some new things from him on the trip which I appreciated. Would definitely recommend him and hope to climb with him again.”
Doug, Multiple 14er’s 2025
“Emma (owner) and Barb (office manager) with the front office were kind, pleasant, helpful and creative in making my CA 14er trips successful…I was also impressed about SMC’s AMGA certification as a guide company. This was probably the main I selected SMC over multiple other Eastern Sierra guide companies (which the other companies did not appear to have). It provided me reassurance that my guides for the various trips should have acceptable AMGA certification for my trips…Guides Dave, Louie, and Anouk were excellent and made me feel comfortable on all my trips…I am a huge fan of openness and transparency with communication. SMC did an awesome job and was willing and helpful with all my various questions and schedule modifications.”
Jason, Palisade Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
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