SP

About SP parker

SP Parker is co-founder and owner of Sierra Mountain Center, and resides at the foot of the Sierra Nevada near Bishop, California. Having traveled around the world for big climbs and first ascents, he still guides notable summits and ski tours every year, and likely drinks more black tea than anyone in the Eastern Sierra. When he can, SP loves visiting New Zealand, his boyhood home, to see his family, friends, and some of his favorite mountains on Earth.

The State of The Sierra Nevada Backcountry; 04/27/2023

There is an awful lot of supposition and wild guesses being made about the upcoming summer and how it will affect backcountry users plans for the summer of 2023. I am making my assessments from a home at 6400 feet north of Bishop. Looking out my window at the mountains right now. I am out in them nearly every day and see the conditions as they are and change my plans accordingly. I am not setting myself up as the final word or the ultimate expert but here are a few things someone looking at an extended trip in the Sierra, A PCT or JMT hiker, or anyone considering [...]

By SP parker|2023-04-27T16:13:00-07:00April 27th, 2023|SMC Blog|

AVI course field day feedback

Just wanted to drop a note to say thank you once again for the Avi 1 course with SP Parker. It was phenomenal, couldn't have ever expected anything more. Sp's professional insights were a great compliment to the materials. And the instructor to student ratio was amazing. While I didn't get much time with Anouk or Tyler (because I was with SP and Sue), they seemed incredibly sharp and very interesting to listen to. Having Sue along, as a practicing snow scientist, was fascinating - a real treat. You too can learn about avalanche safety. Check out our Avalanche School web page for more information

By SP parker|2022-07-28T15:04:27-07:00July 26th, 2022|What Our Clients Say|

Inside the High Sierra

There are a lot of Sierra photographers but none have been more consistent over the years than local Claude Fiddler. I have done a number of trips with Claude in the high Arctic of Alaska and he has watched Claude haul around large format cameras, huge tripods and then see him watch for days until the perfect moment of light and place came together. Along with Claude's images are essays by renowned climbers such as Tom Hornbein, Peter Croft, Dick Dorworth with artists and writers Valerie and Michael Cohen and Claude's daughter Laurel. For those of you who appreciate fine art photography and who have a love for what John [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T17:06:50-07:00June 1st, 2022|SMC Blog|

Waterfall Ice Climbing in Mid-may?

One never knows what you are going to get. On May 11th, 2022 I had to scout snow conditions up in Bishop Creek. I saw a short steep ice flow that I'd seen before but hadn't got to yet. I rounded up a strong, young guide with better ice climbing skills, and less sense than myself, Braden Downey (photographed). We headed out today before the sun rose, in colder than usual temperatures, to try our luck. Unexpectedly the ice and the climbing turned out to be great. Mixed climbing, steep ice and a detached pillar which was somehow still standing. Maybe this route has been done before, maybe not - [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T16:28:53-07:00May 24th, 2022|SMC Blog|

Upcoming AMGA Scope of Practice

We all know that when you go to a doctor you expect them to have graduated from Medical School and be trained and certified. Or maybe you see a Nurse Practitioner or intern, but understand they also have achieved certain levels of training and are qualified to help. Plumbers, bookkeepers, auto mechanics, child care providers... we expect most the professionals who help us to have formal qualifications. Can the same be said of the guide who accompanies you out in the mountains? Often not. Over the last 4 decades guiding in the USA has been slowly evolving, becoming more structured and more standards applied. Sierra Mountain Center (SMC) and owner [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T21:05:44-07:00December 20th, 2021|AMGA Accreditation, SMC Blog|

SMC Renews American Mountain Guides Association Accreditation

Sierra Mountain Center and its owner SP Parker have long been involved with the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association), certifying guides and supporting guiding in the USA. The AMGA has an Accreditation program which looks at business structure, guide training, and how a business is complying with permitting and legal requirements. It points out actual, or potential issues, and offers solutions to those problems. SMC first underwent this process in 2018 and just had a re-review in November 2021. We are very pleased that the AMGA found no problems and we can do not better than to quote the reviewers. In the opinion of this reviewer, the Sierra Mountain Center [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T16:27:00-07:00November 30th, 2021|Alpine Climbing, AMGA Accreditation, Backcountry Skiing, Hiking, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, SMC Blog|

Dispatch from the Eastern Sierra

SMC is still here, surviving a tough year thanks to our wonderful guests, some hard pulls from our team, and our proximity to these amazing mountains. We are very much looking forward to the summer of 2021, and getting outside with you. Keep reading and find out what we've got going on! Snow is melting fast and we anticipate a long hot summer. (Photos above and below taken on one of the winter's rare dumps -- in May!) So if you can, get out early while things are still cool and the creeks are flowing with water. Long term predictions indicate a more extensive monsoon season but like any long [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T17:09:10-07:00June 3rd, 2021|AMGA Accreditation, Condition Reports, Our Environment, SMC Blog|

Ice Climbing with Braden

I wanted to reach out and let you know that I had a really, really good time with Braden, super nice guy. Learned a ton, got some really good climbing in and the weather was perfect. I'll definitely be coming back to build on what I learned. Maybe shoot for an alpine ice or mixed climbing route. I appreciate you guys taking me out. Cheers, Chris A. Want to get out and learn ice climbing. Visit our Ice Climbing School webpage for more information.

By SP parker|2022-07-26T16:45:06-07:00February 18th, 2021|What Our Clients Say|

Covid-19-related Operational Changes

The governor of California has put in place a stay at home order for residents. (Learn more) SMC complies with any closure orders, so regrettably we are not able to operate in-the-field (in person) programs until the orders are lifted or changed. This applies to all ski, backpacking and climbing programs. Locally, the Inyo and Mono County Health Departments are asking that visitors from outside of the county refrain from visiting and instead stay very close to home, wear masks, and limit contacts. SMC Avalanche Courses Avalanche courses have been very popular this winter and most courses are full. We are asking people who registered for field programs before Christmas [...]

By SP parker|2020-12-08T13:21:38-08:00December 8th, 2020|Avalanche, SMC Blog|

Whodunnit in the Nevada Desert

What do the the Polar Bear, the Pika, the Sierra Nevada Red Fox and Thiem’s buckwheat all have in common? At first glance they don’t have much at all in common, but all four could be listed as endangered species under the Endangered Species Act (or what tattered remains are left of it). Polar bears and pikas suffer from habitat loss due climate change. The Sierra Nevada Red Fox suffers from reduction in quiet habitat by relentless human intrusion. Thiem’s buckwheat? Might just be human ignorance. It’s easy to get excited about saving large charismatic animals such as the polar bear. While Thiem’s buckwheat could be considered furry, it’s not [...]

By SP parker|2020-10-05T13:49:01-07:00October 4th, 2020|Our Environment, SMC Blog|

Rick and Whitney Climb Mount Whitney, At Last!

My daughter Whitney (27) and I recently spent a week backpacking with a group from Sierra Mountain Center (SMC) out of Bishop, CA. For several years we had been thinking about Mt. Whitney. In 2017 we tried the Mountaineer's Route, (with another guiding company), and made it to Upper Boy Scout Lake. Coming from Michigan and lacking the time to properly acclimate, we were not feeling well. We decided not to overpush and go for the summit. I said to Whit, we should try this again, but give ourselves more time. Fast forward to 2020, I booked our trip with SMC and it ended up being one of the best [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-28T16:28:26-07:00August 3rd, 2020|What Our Clients Say|

BLM Plan to Burn and Chemically Treat 40 million Acres of Great Basin

Here at Sierra Mountain Center we care very much about our local outdoor environment. Despite everything we and our friends have been coping with lately, the government persists in adding yet more strain to our day: they want to torch the Great Basin because piñon and juniper trees are growing back where they were once cut down. This planned activity will affect portions of California, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Utah, and Washington. We see this as misguided, extremely dangerous, and devastating for our beautiful natural environment which has only been recovering since miners and settlers cut down most the forest in the 19th century. Please join us in resisting such destructive [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T21:08:17-07:00June 2nd, 2020|Our Environment|

Sierra Mountain Center Avi Presentation Followup

Greeting to all Avalanche students, those who did the online program, and those who wanted to but couldn’t. Here we are at the beginning of May and while restrictions are starting to loosen up, it seems as if the snow will melt a lot before we can get back into the mountains and do the field work as we had hoped. The plan was to use the Tioga Pass area, but the road is not open yet. So, it looks as if that will have to wait until next winter. But we will get it done. We have lists of everyone who did the online session and that will count [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T21:12:17-07:00May 5th, 2020|Avalanche, Backcountry Skiing|

What We Want You To Learn On An Avalanche Course

The New York Times recently published an article by Heidi Julavits entitled “What I Learned in Avalanche School.” The article provides valuable insights that could help avalanche educators better teach skills for safe enjoyment of the mountain world. As educators it is often difficult for us to have clear insight into what preconceptions students bring, and what skills and knowledge they hope to gain. The history, bias, fear, and prejudices which participants carry to avalanche programs further muddle the curriculum and goal. Julavits was frightened and thus, did not have the desired takeaway we would have hoped. The purpose of avalanche education is not fear, but respect. Educators’ end goal [...]

By SP parker|2022-07-26T21:14:06-07:00March 4th, 2020|Avalanche, Backcountry Skiing|

Continued avalanche hazard along the PCT/JMT – in June!

2019 is turning out to be a very… different year. Above average snowfall, late snowfalls, high water runoff, delayed runoff; and now an avalanche hazard to take into consideration. On June 4th we had our annual staff training up in Rock Creek Canyon and found evidence of recent avalanche activity. The type of avalanches we saw were “wet slabs” and of up to a D3 plus size, on North and East facing aspects at 11,500 feet. With concern for backcountry travelers, we are offering a few warnings and pieces of advice, but first, a little more about D3 plus wet slab. D3 wet slab avalanches from Mt Starr, Rock [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T12:25:41-07:00June 6th, 2019|Condition Reports, SMC Blog|

Snow and more Snow

This is turning into a very atypical spring in the Sierra Nevada with extensive periods of snow and rain. Mammoth Mountain is reporting 29 inches of snow for May which is an all time recorded record, beating the last high in 2015. The ski area is now proposing to stay open until August. This has happened only twice before, in 2017 and 1995. Looking at the high country snow sensors the snow is very slow to melt and snow depth is gradually but slowly decreasing. Current run off forecast predicts maximum runoff for Kings River June 7 San Joaquin River June 10 Tuolumne River June 10 Merced River June 10 [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T10:37:56-07:00May 29th, 2019|Condition Reports, SMC Blog|

Update on Runoff in the Sierra

The Department of Water Resources has updated the predictions for run off. The maximum runoff dates have been pushed back and later due to cooler temperatures in the Sierra and unsettled weather with small storms moving through and frequent thunderstorm activity that seems to be ongoing. Kern River at Isabella, May 17 PCT mile approx. 690 Kaweah River May 14 To West of PCT Kings River May 17 PCT mile approx. 774 San Joaquin at Millerton, May 21 PCT mile approx. 880 Merced River at Happy Isles May 20 On the JMT Tuolumne River May 31 PCT mile approx. 917 East Walker River June 10 PCT mile approx. 978 If [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T10:38:06-07:00May 5th, 2019|Condition Reports, SMC Blog|

Spring and Early Summer in the Sierra Nevada for JMT/PCT Hikers and other Backcountry Users

The winter of 2018/19 is on its way out and spring is here. Despite the media hype, this was not the biggest snow year ever. But looking at monthly totals from Mammoth Mountain, where the snows came early — February was the biggest February on record Nov 55 inches Dec 26 inches Jan 93 inches Feb 207 inches March 68 inches April 7 inches up to 4/11/19 Total: 456 inches Although winter has not yet fully gone, compare this to winter of 2016/17 where Mammoth reported 617 inches and 2010/11 with 668 inches. What is different is where the snow fell. This winter there has been more snow at [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T10:38:15-07:00April 24th, 2019|Condition Reports, Hiking, SMC Blog|

The Titan

The book, 50 Classic Climbs of North America, came out in the early 1980 and was then, and still is now, a collection of the great climbs from a classic era. Some of the climbs are not so great and there are climbs that are better, but these all have history behind them and are a great tick list for any modern climber. In the 1980 there were few guidebooks and the descriptions were short, vague and sometimes wrong. But I started using the "50 Classics a guide to the best climbs in the USA" and slowly got to some 35 or so out of 50. Problem is that the [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T10:38:35-07:00December 30th, 2018|Rock Climbing, SMC Blog|

Technical expertise and leadership qualities

I just wanted to mention the entire group was impressed with Ryan's technical expertise and leadership qualities. It's a rare combination that lent itself to calming (group) stress, while providing quiet motivation and instilling confidence in the face of challenging conditions. Dave seems to share the same unique set of qualities that helped develop trust and support for everyone to reach their goal. I don't know where you find these guys, but when people are literally entrusting their lives by believing in their leaders' guidance, capabilities and decisions, it's a rare talent indeed. ~ Karl

By SP parker|2022-07-26T21:15:36-07:00June 2nd, 2015|What Our Clients Say|

Mount Patriach – Kauhurangi National Park New Zealand

I (Sp) am back in New Zealand for a few weeks and filling it with some hiking, climbing and enjoying the country.The great thing about NZ "tramping" is that there are lots of tracks, fantastic views and a great hut system. The bad thing is that there are lots of biting sandflies, rain and nothing is easy. But sometimes rewards are directly proportional to effort.With my brother-in-law Martin I did a two day hike up to kiwi Saddle hut, up Mount Patriach and down to John Reid hut and out down Chummies track. The huts here are small 6 bunk ones, basic but shelter and no need to carry a [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00January 15th, 2014|SMC Blog|

Hokitka on West Coast in New Zealand- Jan. 2013

The Wet West Coast West side of the South Island has always had a reputation. Annual rainfall here can be up to almost 60 feet of water. The forest is rainforest and often a battle to get through. Rivers come up and people are stranded for days. A bridge on the main highway washed out here three weeks ago after over two feet of rain in six hours. So getting around is a problem. With a flight to catch in a few days I could not afford to get stuck so I took a short hike up to the Mt Brown hut, a short but steep four hour hike. In [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00January 16th, 2013|SMC Blog|

Mt. Owen aka Moria in New Zealand

Mt Owen aka Moria Jan. 2013 Owen is the high point of Kahurangi National Park and also had a moment of fleeting fame as one of the settings for Lord of the Rings. Even has a summit dragon. More importantly it has a wonderful new hut and spectacular limestone karst terrain and is about an hour from my sisters home in Motueka. About 3-4 hours for the roadhead to the Granity Pass Hut. I got there under clear skies and since you do not want to miss any such opportunities in NZ I headed on up the peak. The route follows rolling tussock covered hills and then into eroded rock [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00January 15th, 2013|Hiking|

Tapuae-o-Uenuku You don’t have to pronounce it to climb it.

Tapi is the highest point in New Zealand outside of the main Divide and I have wanted to climb it for over 40 years. So I connected with an old friend Penny, from the old days of university back in the 1970s, and she flew down from Auckland and we made a quick trip since the forecast was fine for a few days. It is in the Kaikoura Mountains on the east side of the northern part of the South Island and in the rain shadow of the biggest peaks so although a dry environment there are sill rivers to deal with and the approach is 22km up a river [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00January 8th, 2013|SMC Blog|