This is one of the most aesthetic and difficult High Sierra climbs – perfect granite high above Mono Lake with spectacular views out into the Nevada desert. This route has an almost European feel to it, with an easy hike to the top where extra gear is cached before the climb. A short descent leads to the base of a huge sweeping slab of rock. The route gets steadily more difficult until you reach the final pitch, which has been understatedly described as “the best 5.9 in the universe.” A final mantle puts you on the summit a scant few feet from the cached gear.
We also combine this route along with The Incredible Hulk in our Third Hulk Linkup, giving two of the finest hard climbs in the Eastern Sierra in three days.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.10 level and have experience on multi pitch routes.
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing an physical training in the “Resources” tab.
This is a one-day trip. We also combine this with the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk to give two of the best routes in the Sierra in three days with our Third Hulk Linkup.
The day starts with you getting well fed in Lee Vining before meeting your guide at the trailhead. The approach hike takes about two hours and is initially through pleasant timberline forest and later above the tree line on the Dana Plateau.
With good views all the way, the hike to and from the climb are worth the day in and of themselves. If we keep our eyes open we might even see the endangered bighorn sheep that sometimes pass over the plateau.
The climb is great too, though. After caching unnecessary items on the summit we descend to the base via third, and briefly, fourth class terrain. Early season ascents also have the added excitement of a short snow slope to cross in order to reach the start. Six or seven pitches lead to the top.
The first pitch is a good warm up at 5.8 with a layback crack. A fourth class pitch follows, then the big fun begins. The third pitch is tricky with some route finding issues that slow down parties lacking our familiarity with the route, but is consistently 5.9 and features an awkward wide crack. The fourth pitch also has variations, the easiest having a great 5.8 layback and a chimney. The fifth pitch is usually considered to be the crux, a poorly protected (that’s what we’re there for…) 5.10 move leads from the belay to easier climbing, making for a short pitch.
The route gets steadily more difficult until you reach the final pitch, which is “the best 5.9 in the universe”. The climb ends abruptly as one pulls over the top onto the horizontal a few feet away from the cached gear. We relax in the sun some before heading back to the trailhead.
The only remaining question is ‘where are the First and Second Pillars’?
Elevations and Distances:
Round-trip: 5.6 miles, 3000’ of gain, 3000’ of descent
★ Please Read before you go ★
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