Dates 2022-23

June xx
July xx
August xx
September xx
Custom groups can be accommodated so ask.

This course is a three day (27 hour) training course. It is designed to be taken prior to students practicing skills learned on the course on their own time to show up prepared to take the two day (16 hour) AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment.

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is designed to enable instructors to “proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting”. The program is for currently active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers who have their own equipment, regularly climb and have at least 12 months of outdoor rock climbing experience. Candidates could be current university professors that teach climbing, climbing instructors, scout leaders, summer camp professionals or climbers who wish to undergo additional training, experience and certification to gain employment as a climbing instructor in the outdoor adventure/education industry.
The SPI Course is not a “climbing” course. It is an instructor training course for active, proficient rock climbers and for current climbing instructors who wish to gain SPI certification.
Single Pitch Instructor certification is the second stage of the AMGA’s Climbing Instructor Certification Program and will significantly help candidates who wish to work toward the next stage, the AMGA Rock Guide Course (RGC). The SPI course presents many instructor specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT and assistance/rescue skills.

Location

This program takes place in the Mammoth area in the summer and fall and the Bishop area during the colder months. Course location will depend upon weather and conditions at the time.

For Mammoth-based climbing we meet at the Shady Rest Pavilion in Mammoth Lakes at 8:00 am. From Highway 395 take the Mammoth Lakes exit and follow the signs into town. Turn right just past the USFS Welcome Center (If you get to the first traffic light you have gone too far.) and follow the road about a mile until you come to the entry to Shady rest Park on the Right. Drive in and look for the Pavillion on your left.

For Bishop-based climbing we will meet the first day at 8:00 am at The Isaak Walton Park, 3600 W Line St, Bishop, CA 93515. Take West Line Street west towards the Sierra Nevada and you will find the Park on the south side of the road just before you leave Bishop proper.
We will meet for an orientation talk and equipment check, then proceed to our location for the day.

Instructors

Our Instructors for this program are AMGA Certified Rock Guides that have completed the rigorous training and steps to becoming an SPI Provider. You can expect the highest level of climbing and safety knowledge combined with solid instructional skills and professionalism.

Notes

The following Textbook is required for students to obtain prior to this course:
• Gains, Bob and Martin, Jason Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual, Falcon Press, 2014
It can be obtained from Amazon used or new.

Additionally we recommend reading the following books:
• Chauvin, Marc and Coppolollo, Rob. The Mountain Guide Manual: The Comprehensive Reference – From Belaying to Rope Systems and Self Rescue, Falcon Press, 2017
• Long, John. The Trad Climbers Bible, Falcon Press, 2014
• Donahue, Topher and Leubben, Craig Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition: A Comprehensive Guide, The Mountaineers Books 2019

SPI eLearning | Online Course Information

E- Lerning Modules are a vital part of the pre-course requirement, helping students prepare for programs, standardize learning outcomes of key lessons, and increase time on programs for hands-on learning and field application.
Once you register for the program you will be given a link and access code to start the e-learning process.
As you prepare for your SPI course, be sure to put time aside to complete the online course prior to meeting in person.
You can expect a time commitment of approximately 2 hours to complete all three courses and upon finishing the programs, you will get a completion confirmation email to send to your course instructor.

Return to SMC Rock Climbing School

SPI Course Overview
The following three day outline is the standard progression for an SPI course. Program Providers may present a different daily schedule but the entire curriculum will be covered in the course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum on the course at their discretion, but they will not omit items from the established SPI curriculum. SPI Program providers must make it clear when they are teaching outside the established curriculum and should not evaluate beyond that curriculum. The course is normally run over three consecutive nine hour days but as long as the curriculum is covered over 27 hours the course may be run over separate weekends or even as a semester class.

Day 1
• Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
• Session 2: Professionalism
• Session 3: Equipment
• Session 4: Knots and Hitches
• Session 5: Belaying
• Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
•Session 7: Teaching End-of-Day Debriefs

Day 2
• Session 8: The Climbing Site
• Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
• Session 10: Base-Managed Sites
• Session 12: Programming and Risk Management End-of-Day Debriefs

Day 3
• Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
• Session 14: Top-Managed Sites
• Session 15: Lowering
• Session 16: Assistance Skills: Top-Managed Sites
• Session 17: Rappelling
• Session 18: Climbing Movement
• Session 19: Review Sessions Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Program Prerequisites:

Candidates meet the pre-requisites for enrollment in an SPI course if they:
• Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing on single pitch crags.
• Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
• Have at least 12 months prior outdoor climbing experience.
• Are active climbers with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
• Have traditionally led a minimum of 15 rock climbing pitches (any grade).
• Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates exceed them. Without this minimum experience candidates are unlikely to be able to contribute to the course or make the best use of the training. Candidates who are unsure of their qualifications would benefit from hiring an AMGA Certified Rock Instructor, Rock Guide or Mountain Guide to evaluate and enhance their skill level prior to enrollment in an SPI program.

Program Inclusions:

Price includes Instruction, AMGA Licensing Fee, Program Handbook, and permits.
Local accommodation is not included in the program.
Personal climbing equipment is not included and you need to provide it as per the equipment list.

★ Please Read before you go ★

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Rental Equipment:

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Single Pitch Instructor Course