The East Buttress of Mt. Whitney is certainly the best known climbing route in the Whitney area, and for good reason. With ten high-quality rock pitches at moderate difficulty it would be classic even if Whitney weren’t the highest point in the lower 48 states. But with that distinction The East Buttress becomes a “must-do” for the alpine rock climber, a little harder and steeper than the more popular East Face. The route was first climbed by the redoubtable Glen Dawson along with Bob Brinton, Richard Jones, Howard Kostner and Muir Dawson in 1937. Originally called the Sunshine-Pee Wee route after the large block part way up, the route became one of Dawson’s favorite Sierra routes.

This is our video description of what it is like to go up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek with SMC to approach the East Buttress.

For better quality video you can go to our YouTube site and click the “watch in higher resolution button”.


high-sierra-climbing-super-topo   good-great-awesoeThe best guidebooks are Supertopo’s “High Sierra Climbing” by Chris McNamara and Peter Croft’s “The Good, The Great, and the Awesome”.

Get them from Maximus Press.

You can also get our unpublished SMC Guide to Whitney here.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000′) just prior to the trip. Spending a night at Whitney Portal or the Cottonwood Campground would do the trick.

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