Blog

Mini Mountain Camp June 27-29

Dave Meyers put together a custom trip with his sons Grant and Nick after climbing Whitney via the Trail Route a little earlier. The boys were tired after all of that exertion and after a day of rock climbing at Benton Crags Nick decided that his body and feet were sore so SP, SMC's 2010 intern Aaron, Dave and headed up Rock Creek Canyon to camp at Mills Lake. Summer really hit the Sierra over the last few days and temperatures were hot. We spent the afternoon of Day 2 working on snow skills above Mills Lake. Still lots of snow out there and the uppper lakes ares till frozen. [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00July 6th, 2010|SMC Blog|

Skiing the Sierra High Route, 9-15 May

One of the most classic multi-day ski tours in the country is the Sierra High Route. Stretching across one of the widest points of the range, the tour consistently stays above 10,000 feet and travels through some of the most impressive alpine terrain anywhere. Jeff, Michael, and SMC's new intern Aaron joined me for a trip that seemed daunting at first, but became absolutely sublime by the finish. SMC adds mileage, terrain, impressive scenery, and fewer people (we saw none this year for the whole tour) by starting in Onion Valley and crossing Kearsarge Pass. This is a higher start - indeed, we were able to skin almost [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:23:34-07:00May 28th, 2010|Backcountry Skiing|

Monarch Divide Ski Tour; May 3-9 2010

The Monarch Divide is SMC's favorite ski tour. More difficult than the high route is takes one into little visited areas of Sequoia Kings National Park, has great down skiing and fantastic scenery. Over the last decade or so this has become our signature tour and we are the only guides to guide this trip. John Miller has long wanted to do this trip but we were thwarted two years ago and went back out via Taboose Pass from upper Basin. This year John recruited two co-workers,, Heather Hollister, Danielle Carlin with Serge Dubovitsky and Peter Caldwell rounding out the group. Also along as an assistant guide was Andrew Soleman. [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:38-08:00May 23rd, 2010|Backcountry Skiing|

North Palisade, Starlight & Thunderbolt with Joe Maher and Dan Gelinas. 8.13-15.09

We have done lots of trips with Joe over the years and Dan was on the Mini Mountain Camp with Eric earlier in the year. Both guys were in great shape and knew what they were up for so guide SP PArker and apprentice Gonzalo Montenegro were happy to be able to move quickly and smoothly with them for three days. We hiked in over Bishop Pass on day one and made camp in the upper reaches of Palisade Basin at the small tarn we use for our Fourteeners trip . The goal of the trip was to traverse three peaks in one day so we were off before daylight [...]

By SP parker|2016-09-29T20:43:31-07:00August 26th, 2009|Alpine Climbing, Rock Climbing|

West Palisades Climbing

Some trips with Sierra Mountain Center seem to have seasonal popularity: I remember doing trips into the west access of the Palisades 3-4 times a summer when I first started. A few years ago I did a huge number of summer ice climbing trips, hiking in and out of Mt. Thompson often enough that I quickly developed a preferred route from the Treasure Lakes basin. This year the emphasis seems to be on rock climbing. Jeff, Cory, and Doug decided to buck fashion and asked Andrew and I to join them on a trip to the Palisades, west-side style, from 9-13 August. Absolutely! The Palisades are most commonly climbed from the east. From Glacier [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:23:43-07:00August 24th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Charlotte Dome with Jay, Haimei and Ray. August 9-11, 2009

Charlotte Dome is one of the finest climbs in the Sierra backcountry. Every single pitch is excellent and the climbing challenging, but not too hard. if only it was not such along walk..... The approach is about 12 miles one way and makes for a long day. But the campsite is at one of the best springs in the Sierra with cold clear water bubbling from a hole between rocks. A wonderful place to hang out. Jay and Haimei had been here climbing for a week before with us and were tuned up. Ray is an "old school" climber with lots of experience so guides SP and Gonzalo knew that [...]

By SP parker|2016-09-29T20:43:31-07:00August 24th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Crystal Crag

20090803: Day 3 After yesterday's adventure on Walker Tower, we had a late breakfast at the Base Camp Cafe before taking a more mellow day - the North Arete on Crystal Crag. This is a classic II 5.6 route outside of Mammoth, featuring three pitches of steady 5.6 and another 600' or so of 4th class ridge scrambling. After the "II 5.6" of the previous day, this was a nice walk in the park for Jay and Haimei. crystal crag / the north arete follows the right-most corner for a pitch / pitch 2 follows ramps up and left / and the final fifth-class pitch climbs a chimney to [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:08-07:00August 22nd, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Condition Report for the High Sierra

This condition report uses direct observation from the Palisade Range to make some general predictions for the current conditions in the High Sierra. Don't use this as your sole source of information to trip plan! This photo shows the Palisade Range from Polemonium to Thunderbolt Peaks. Clearly in view are the V-Notch Couloir, U-Notch Couloir, Clyde Couloir, NE Couloir on Thunderbolt, North Face of Thunderbolt, and an un-named couloir to the right of the North Face. Photo taken late July, 2009. The alpine ice routes in the Sierra continue to be in the best shape I have seen them in 7 years. The L-shaped couloir on Mt. Sill is also still filled in [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:08-07:00August 21st, 2009|Condition Reports|

The Walker Tower (5-6 pitches, 5.7)

20090802: DAY 2! In R.J. Secor's book, a multi-pitch climb is mentioned to exist in Bloody Canyon, just north of June Lake. The first tower on the left supposedly had a route following the right side of a larger corner on the prow of the tower, up to 5.6. The whole description took up three lines as a "wrinkle", fitting for a route established in the early 1970's: "There is a II 5.6 route on the easternmost pinnacle. Climb the face to the right of a black open book, and then the book itself for eight pitches to the top of the pinnacle. This was first climbed October 1972 by [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:08-07:00August 20th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Big Springs Rock Climbing!!

Jay and Heimei joined me again this year for a few days of rock climbing. August 1st was day one, so we took it mellow and went to a sector of Big Springs that's new to me: The Stumps. Big Springs is better known for Clark Canyon, but the stumps featured 60-150' trad climbs up remarkably good welded tuff. We climbed a 5.6, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, and finally a 150' 5.8 with a great finish not shown in the guidebook. What a great time! Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide and a Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide for SMC. Check out his adventures at his personal website: Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat.

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:08-07:00August 13th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Hiking to Whitney the casual way: Cottonwood to Whitney from the West Side

July 26-31: One of the more relaxed trips that Sierra Mountain Center offers is a horse-pack supported, five-day long, hiking trip to the summit of Mt. Whitney via Horseshoe Meadows and Cottonwood Pass. Don't be fooled by my casual discription of the trip - we hiked 8-13 miles per day, every day. But for me, the trip is a great way to take a break from lugging 45-lbs packs up/down steep approaches, so I savor five days where I'm just expected to walk, chat, and cook. Max and the horses and mules from Cottonwood Pack Station ferried our gear across the back of the crest - thanks Max! And thanks [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:08-07:00August 13th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Devils Crag with Corrine Livingston July 28-August 1, 2009

Somehow we seem to have become the "go to" guide service for Devils Crag. The peak is probably the most difficult on the Sierra Peaks list. This list comprises 248 peaks and only 66 people have done it and Corrine has only 15 left to go and has a trip to the Great Western Divide next week which if she completes her tick list there will have 7 left to go. This trip had a great ratio of guide to climber with SP leading, and interns Rich and Andrew coming along. The first day took us over Bishop Pass, down into Le Conte Canyon and then spent the night at [...]

By SP parker|2016-09-29T20:43:31-07:00August 8th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Extended Mountain Camp; July 2009

Jason was the "last man standing" for an Extended Mountain Camp from Sierra Mountain Center - the other two clients had canceled for one reason or another. So we met one early Sunday morning, with a climate dilema. Thunderstorms had been hitting us with clockwork precision every afternoon, making a lot of the taller alpine climbs normally dispatched on a trip like this a little harder. So we pulled together a plan, and our after-action report to SMC looked like this: Sunday, 20090719. Morning: Climbed Running Lizards (II 5.7, 3 pitches), PSOM Wall, Pine Creek Canyon, Bishop. Afternoon: Packed up, drove past Big Pine to Glacier Lodge, and hiked into Third [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00August 7th, 2009|Alpine Climbing, Rock Climbing|

Tyndall and Williamson with Linda Emerson; July 7-10 2009

Linda has done a lot of trips with us over the years and keeps coming back for more climb. This time was Tyndall and Williamson and we had to do the trip before the area is closed for protection of the Sierra bighorn sheep. Guiding the trip was SP and SMC intern, Andrew Soloman, who came along to learn the area. Every trip starts with the long flog up Symmes Creek to Anvil Camp. The trailhead was super busy with 28 cars parked there. Busier than Whitney! But it only took a bit over five hours to Anvil Camp. We spent the night here for acclimatization and set of early [...]

By SP parker|2016-09-29T20:43:31-07:00July 22nd, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

East Buttress Adventures on Mt. Whitney

20090714-16. David and Carolyn joined me for a three day trip up the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. We had beautiful weather and easy hiking to Iceberg Lake on the first day. We had a fantastic climb up the East Buttress, with a beautiful sunrise and warm temperatures - We reached the summit in our shirt sleeves! After a long lunch and leisurely descent, we turned in for a second night. Late in the morning we finally got started down, and took our time to the burgers and fries at Doug Thompson's Whitney Portal Store. Thanks for a great time, Carolyn and David! Chris Simmons is an AMGA Certified Alpine [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Temple Crag Climbing

Temple Crag / Dark Star is the massive buttress immediately right of the summit / Sun Ribbon Arete is the prominent knife-edge ridge immediately to the left of the summit / Moon Goddess Arete is the next distinct ridge, starting immediately above the pine tree top in the left of the photo / Venusian Blind Arete is the less distinct line to the left of Moon Goddess 20090711-13. Pat came up from San Diego, wanting to climb on Temple Crag. Temple is host to some fantastic alpine grade III, IV, and V routes on surprisingly good rock. Pat and I got to climb Moon Goddess (IV 5.8, 15 pitches), with [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Rock Climbing; 4-5 July 2009

Sonja and Vale joined me for the 4th of July weekend to experience multi-pitch rock climbing. Previously they had been strong gym climbers with a bit of outdoor top-roping experience. So I took advantage of their fitness and experience to head for several routes that I haven't climbed. On Saturday we went to the PSOM Wall in Pine Creek Canyon. PSOM stands for the Palisade School of Mountaineering, a guide service in the 70's and 80's that used this wall to teach multi-pitch climbing. I was hoping to climb Running Lizards, a 3-pitch 5.7, and PSOM Pinnacle, a 3-pitch 5.8. Running Lizards was great! There was a little of everything [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

East Buttress of Mt. Whitney; 29-30 June 2009

Matt and Stacie came up from Oakland to climb Mt. Whitney with me in a blistering two days. This is not for the light of heart: on Tuesday we had breakfast at 3:00am and were on the move until we arrived in Whitney Portal at 7:45pm that evening. While we didn't break any speed records, we didn't go slow either!

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Solstice Climbing on Premier Buttress; 21 June 2009

Damien and Dustin came up from San Francisco to climb Fred Beckey's Premier Route on the Premier Buttress. This is my favorite route in the Eastern Sierra for the grade, with incredible finger cracks, hand cracks, an exciting 4-bolt ladder to aid through, slab climbing, face climbing, and even a chimney and off-width. Whew! Andy the Intern joined us, so we climbed in two rope teams. I think I break up the normal Pitch 2 into two pitches to facilitate belayer communication, so by my system a team can: climb 5 pitches and do three rappels with two ropes from the top of Pitch 5, 4, and the anchor of [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 24th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Whitney’s Mountaineer Route; June 18-20 2009

Larry and Mike joined me and our new intern Andy Soleman for a great climb of the Mountaineers Route on Mt. Whitney (14494 ft). We still had threatening clouds rolling in after noon, so I voted for a 2:00am wake-up. Since I'm the guide, my vote counted most, and we got up at 2:00am! I'm adding a conditions report next, but its amazing to see how much snow is in the route. All of the rock normally exposed this time of year is burried - we just walked right up the middle, in snow, all the way to the summit. Amazing. We reached the summit just before 9:00am, and stopped [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 23rd, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Climbing Mt. Russell’s East Ridge with Burtt Blodgett; 12-13 June 2009

Burtt and I made a quick two-day ascent of the East Ridge on Mt. Russell (14088 ft). I've put together a slideshow on my personal blog with captions, at Climb.Ski.Run.Sleep.Repeat. Here are the same photos in gallery form:

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 23rd, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Girl Scout Troop 218 from Minden, Nevada; June 13 2009

Nine 4th and 5th grader girls (and one boy ) and some of their moms from Minden climbed with SP, Ali and Andrew for a day at Benton Crags. Hoping to dodge the weather which has been thunder stormy we headed out to Benton Crags after meeting at Tom's Place. The day turned out to be pretty much perfect and we wrapped it up just as the skies opened. All of the girls did great and climbed wonderfully. Even those worried about it and a little scared all gave it a try and a few even got to the the top of the 100 foot 5.6 route. We all had [...]

By SP parker|2009-06-14T14:45:42-07:00June 14th, 2009|Rock Climbing|

Mount Langley; June 10-11, 2009

Normally June is a great month in the Sierra Nevada. But these days one never knows! For 2009 it has been cold with snow and rain in the range. Which makes it great for living in Bishop, but whole lot harder to climb in the mountains. Langley is also generally straight forward climbing to 14,042 feet but conditions always change things. For our Langley climb participants were Burt Blodget and brothers Larry and Rich Brateman, along with Connie taking time off from the office to get out in the mountains. Guiding were SP and Bradon. Wet snow fell as we left the Cottonwood trailhead and continued all the way to [...]

By SP parker|2016-12-23T19:52:39-08:00June 13th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Darwin and Mendel; 8-11 June 2009

Paul and I hiked into the Evolutions this week to climb the Northeast Ridges of Darwin (Class 4) and Mendel (Class 3). Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate. The adventure started on Monday when our shorts-and-t shirt approach turned into 3 inches of fresh snow! Tuesday morning was crystal clear, and we excited made our way to Darwin Col. But cumulus clouds were already starting to build before 7:00am, forcing us to divert from the more-committing and slower-to-climb NE Ridge and try to climb the simpler and more direct North Couloir (snow to 45 degrees). But the great kick-step snow we had found everywhere else didn't exist in the couloir: instead [...]

By SP parker|2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 11th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

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